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La Laguna segreta di Venezia

Come ogni mese, trascorro alcuni giorni a Venezia a casa di mio figlio. Vado anche per stare con la mia piccola nipotina . Ieri sera sono tornato a casa mia! Quando sono lì ne approfitto per fare qualche giro e andare nei luoghi poco conosciuti dal turismo tradizionale.

Stavolta, anche se si sono aperte in Piazza San Marco le feste per il Carnevale ed è ancora inverno , sono andato a visitare alcune piccole isole che formano la ''pianura liquida di Venezia'' , unica al mondo che, dopo 200 anni di abbandono e utilizzo militare, sta tornando a vivere.

Oggi le piccole Isole della Laguna , che da secoli riforniscono il mercato di Rialto con prodotti straordinari grazie al particolare terreno salino, sono infatti investite da grandi progetti di recupero che hanno risvegliato anche l'antica funzione agraria.

Allontanandoci da San Marco in direzione del Lido , si approda a San Lazzaro degli Armeni , un'oasi peace beloved by the poet George Byron. Here, the fathers Mechitaristi take visitors into the garden and the rose garden next to the old print shop that printed in 29 languages \u200b\u200b and recount the genesis of vartanush, the special jam roses sold in the guesthouse.

Gardens salted and religious brotherhoods also Certosa, 24 hectares of land 250 meters east of Venice used until 1997 as polygon roll of the Lagoon and that after a long peaceful struggle have been transformed into a dock and a construction site, the Polo Nautico Vento di Venezia, who builds wooden boats. Seen from above, the island looks like a lush patch of hackberry and mulberry trees around the ruins of the Carthusian monastery of the fifteenth century. The brothers grew you two vineyards, and Sabbioneta Torresina, and a large garden. Those who come here do so for The Carthusian , where chef Ivan Garlati combines a love for the island products to those on his land, Val Sesia. Among his specialties, the peoci soup (mussels) and the lagoon stew.

Nearby are the islands of Vignole and Sant'Erasmo , always salted vegetable gardens in the city. There are grown famous castraure or small purple artichokes inimitable taste salty, and there produce the original salt marsh flower honey and artichokes. As he delves into the lagoon we will go back a thousand years.

It goes around the island of San Francesco del Deserto , formerly known as Two Vigne. Here too, the brothers take care of the garden, but leave only visit the church of Francis, who lived on the island.

is difficult to break away from the cloistered silence, but not very far away is Burano. It always comes back happy but forget it traditional lace (made somewhere!) and focus on gastronomy. A stop is a must Da Romano, local historian opened at the beginning of the twentieth century from a simple man but a lover of art, which welcomed the penniless painters attracted by the landscape .
Instead of the money was in force trade: paintings in exchange for moleche (crabs) and, today, the walls are well 420 works of great caliber (Hull, Cadorin, Widow, De Pisis, Fontana). no less unique dishes, from rare moleche breaded and fried, which are bred in wooden boxes submerged right in front of Burano, go to the risotto (goby), until the fish grilled over coals of wood that is brought from the mainland on large Burch (the typical flat-bottomed boats). Not far away is the Bottega Palmisano, where you can buy freshly baked cookies bussolà .

A Torcello, however, lived only twenty people. Yet, in this island which houses magnificent Byzantine mosaics in the cathedral testimony to a glorious past, dominated by a king of Venetian cuisine, the Locanda Cipriani , already culinary passion of Ernest Hemingway that just loved to hunt in the waters of the lagoon and enjoy those who are still the workhorse of the restaurant: risotto Torcello and the hosts (shrimp).

Finally, Mazzorbo , a spectacular setting dominated by an ancient walled vineyard of grapes Doron, a silent variety of endangered and recovered after ten years of work. In keeping came, the chef Belluno Paola Budel brought the best of the Veneto, for example lamb Alpago, uniting to forget herbs lagoon, as the rare Salicornia plant once used by sailors against scurvy, and today ingredient of original except for rice dishes.

Excellent trip, although in the Piazza San Marco was located 'a fountain of wine' , where Venetian aperitif wine poured and distributed or sold by beautiful local innkeeper at popular prices.